Chris arrived  in Brisbane on 28^th, and straight away he had 3 days of intense business meetings to decide the future of the club.   We cannot afford to buy it.

Michael Knopf played the guitar and sung.  I did manage to take Chris to see Sandie Leong, the miraculous masseuse of Indooroopilly (0404 433 700). She knows  a lot about acupuncture and herbal medicines as well. She (and arnica!) cure me after my numerous falls.

Then Sydney, for son Martin’s wedding. It had been totally arranged by him and Michiko, and I was most impressed by  the seemingly flawless operation - both of the wedding and the next  4  days.

The wedding was held in the Botanical Gardens.and had Japanese elements to it.  It was a sunny day, and the setting was just beautiful. At the end everyone formed a huge circle and sang ‘All you need is love’ in accompaniment to a recording. Then the families  went off to the Hunter Valley, where we visited 7 wineries (they’re not called vineyards).   I liked Wyndhams sparkling Chardonnay best.  Then to Port Stephen, which is a suburb of Nelson Bay.   It  poured with rain, so we passed a very enjoyable morning in a 10-pin bowling alley!   We also had a meal in a friendly café with beautiful fresh food. (I’ve left the details in London!  sorry) But it is in Nelson Bay.

Since my last few days in Brisbane I had been.trying, unsuccessfully, to locate my nearly-expired passport which I had sent off to Canberra.  I had not included the fee (! don’t know why not), but they were proving virtually impossible to deal with by phone.   Lyckily I could afford both the time and the money to make a quick trip out to Canberra where a very helpful young man managed to locate my passport and supply me with a new one.

I heard the Brazillian duo; they were not Brazilians, but they played Brazilian-type music.   Peter Walters and Jamie Clark.   The Melissa Western quintet played upstairs, they played quite a lot of Brazilian tunes too. On Fri.night there was a miserable audience, but it was better on the Saturday night.  Tynee Dyer played trumpet, and Bela Piri on bass.   On Sunday we had a Sunday like the ones in our first months, 6  people who ate!   That will not pay the rent!   On Sunday the Sue Bond quartet played here.  

This is an AMAZING venue – please, we are sorely in need of a FORTUNE, well, $1,000,000.   It would be a major source of regret to Brisbanians and others if it were to be turned into offices. 

Donald and I ate out in ‘2 small rooms, Donald had rainbow trout, which he filleted from the tail to the head – very cleanly.    In Britain one fillets the fish by lifting away the flesh from the head down to the tail, which gave rise to jokes about being ‘down under’.   I’ve noticed that a lot of bolts on doors go ‘down under’ too!

Two nephews, two sons, one fiancée and me all spent this time in Cairns.   We did not seem   to do much, mostly lazed around.   We were staying at the Colonial Club in Cairns, with three pools, 3 restaurants and wonderful tropical vegetation.   I even saw the bat plant in flower.

The family played ping pong, (The photo makes then look like a bunch of P.O.W’s, by Australian standards)

Martin had arranged for us to go to the reef, with  an outfit called ’Passions of Paradise’   We went to Michaelmas Cay  and Paradise Reef.   Again I went Snorkelling with the marine biologist and Martin .  The other four went diving.   The three unattached Stones enjoyed it so much that they went on courses that included night dives, which sounds really exciting.

We hired a car and drove  to the Atherton Highlands.   We visited the cathedral fig tree.

Martin was the only one to swim in Lake Barrine, but all 3 of us swam in Lake Eacham  which was so refreshing.

We all went to Mossman Gorge, where all the boys swam but Michiko and I didn’t, but I will if there’s another time.   Then back to Port Douglas, my FAVOURITE town, where we booked in to the Welcome  Inn, which  I found very convenient.

In  the early evening I got on a barstool next to Donald and started  chatting away – only to discover it wasn’t Donald, but a total stranger!   However,   by this stage of the holidays I was collecting cocktail recipes, and I had spotted one with a fascinating name which I decided to try – DRUNKEN CANE TOAD!   Rum, triple sec, passion fruit, lemon juice and ginger  ale.   It was good- but halfway through I fell off the bar stool – who would believe I wasn’t drunk?    

That evening we ate at Mango Jam, which sadly stopped playing live music some years ago.   The next morning we had ‘Breakfast with the Birds’, saw the crocs, koalas, cassiowary and marsupials, and ducks, then made our way back to Cairns.

Brisbane

What a eventful month!   My father always used to tell me that there was a ‘fey’ gift in our family, as a child I looked for it eagerly - and unsuccessfully, and  that fact had slipped into oblivion. However, I was feeling uneasy about the club, so I cut short my holiday by a few days, arriving back in Brisbane a  week early where I found a bit  of   a mess.   However,  we are now under new  management, the whole  atmosphere has completely   changed, it is happier,   more  relaxed,  and even fun.  

Maggie  Black’s is now officially a jazz restaurant, with a small  1, 2 or 3-piece playing   while  Mitchell  Yates, the chef, titillates our taste buds.   Then you can go upstairs to the   amazing skylight room for further enjoyment of your senses and completion of  your entertainment. Glen  Muirhead is proving admirable on IT, already we  have a  higher profile publicity-wise.   Jon Rawlings is proving an extremely capable ‘interim’ manager, and has already come  up with good ideas.

New Orleans.   I  always stay in  the French Quarter,  in   the Provincial Hotel, which I find convenient and comfortable (the bed is a high four-poster that I need a stool to climb into!) It is not as full of tourists as it was before Katrina (although I  don’t mind that).  I have been to Irene’s cuisine again, it is very good. I have also found the Palm Court jazz café again, 1204  Decatur, open from Wed thru Sunday. The owner says  that it opened in 1989, and after the hurricane on 19 October, 2005. It seems to typify the spirit of New Orleans, greatmusic, enjoyment, dancing, and caring about the community.

I was lucky, Duke Heitger, that marvellous trumpeter,    was playing there three  times that week. Also on trumpet was the incredible 95-yr-old Lionel Firske. There were also Brian O’Connell on clarinet, also Otis Bazoon and Tim Laughlin; Chuck Bailey on vocals and bass Singers Topsy Chapman and Thais Clark,  the latter had such a powerful voice, and a   good manner of warming up Friday night crowds.   On piano were Jamie White and Bob Molinelli;  Shannon Powell, Andrew Hall and Mayumi on drums, Freddie Lonzo and the wonderful Ronald Johnson on trombone, exuding enjoyment and good humour. Les Muskett was on banjo.

Chris Owens is one of the ‘legends of jazz’ (300- Bourbon) She is a  dancer.  She  has a club on  the corner of Bourbon/St. Louis  streets.   There is a ‘legends of jazz park’ which has live music by  the steamboat willie’s jazz band from 6 pm. on Thurs-Sat, unfortunately the weather was a trifle inclement, but I went once.

On the Sun. I went to the café Brazil, in Frenchman St. and l loved it, it was a  Sunday afternoon dance, mainly for a local people, with   terrific New Orleans music, and I loved feeling part of New Orleans,   Then Snug Harbor where Evan Christopher was playing with Tom McDermott, which   was the  highlight of this trip. 

Actually, the real highlight was Wed night, when I was again at the  Palm Court café, with Evan Christopher, Ronald Johnson, Tom Fisher, Shannon Powell, Nobu and a pianist.   I met up with am Australian I’d met at the club, and two from NZ who will try to get Evan a gig in Sydney.  And I DANCED!!!

I had 1.5 days in Singapore.   In spite of my friends’ long hours I was able to go out for dinner, and then we went on to see Clarissa, one of Singapore’s best known singers – and she is marvellous.  

She is Costa Rican, sings in Portuguese as fluently as English (and presumably in several other languages as well!)  Of course I would love her to come to the club, but we have to be fairly cautious, but the way bookings are flooding in it shouldn’t be too long.

Apart from that I wasn’t very adventurous.     I went to the Marine Plaza shopping mall to look at the art gallery, but it was closed for renovation.    So I walked along to the merlion, which is Singapore’s national symbol, it stands (just the head, it doesn’t seem to have a body).   I also located Harry’s Bar and South Bridge, the two jazz clubs in Singapore, although most of the big hotels have jazz or piano.

I was staying  in the  Marina Mandarin, which I  liked; the best feature was that  all day it was filled with jungle birdsong.   Glorious! 

Back in Paris.   I heard Claude  Bolling, with Pierre Maingourd and Vincent Cordelette.   Claude was a joy to listen to, splitting the evening into two parts as usual;  light classical and then rag.   Then Claude Tissendier, with Didier Dubois, Sylvain Glevarec, Phillipe Dervieux on piano, who was wonderful, with very thin and strong fingers, and Patrice Soler on bass.   They are main stream rather than New Orleans, but with such swing and excitement in their music.   I particularly liked Blues in the Night, Harlem Nocturne and Caledonia, in the latter there was a really good boogie-woogie.

Then I heard Irakli, with Jacques Schneck, Jean-Claude Onesta, Pierre Maingourd, Guy Bonne on clarinet and Michel Denison drums, with a whole lot of boefeurs: Benoit de Flamesnil, Bernard (a young drummer), Marcel Zanini (vocals and clarinet), Ivan (on bass, he looked great fun) and a young and talented pianist, Jean-Baptiste Franc.  As well as playing ‘Shine’ with the band, he played a solo piece with beautiful expression, I could hear soft comments of appreciation from the audience at the end.

The High Society Jazz band were playing the next  night, William  Conquy, Frederic Isermann, Francois Crottin,  (Francis Quettier  guested, of the Southern Stompers) , Irakli and Franck Duffroi, both on trumpet – and of course Pauline Atlan.

Then back to London, where I saw the Pizza Express All Stars, led by Tommy Whittle, with Julian Marc Stringle, Enrico Tomasso, Roy Williams, Martin Litton, Len Skeat and Alan Ganly. Tonight I am going to the River Bar to see Alan Beechey    and his Bright Stars of jazz, Heather Birt on bass, Graham Hughes (tbne), Richie Howard (clarinet), Andre Ruiz Palma (guitar), Domidnic Coles on drums, and possibly Charles Condy on piano.

Back in England again briefly, really just to go to see Harry Allen (sax) with Joe Cohen (guitar), Chuck Riggs (drums) and Joel Forbes (bass).   Also playing was the James Pearson trio, with James on piano, (good and terrific energy), Mat Holmes on drums and Stan Burgess on bass.   There was also a  singer from Australia who impressed me, Nina Farro from Melbourne.   It would be nice if she came to our club.   I also saw Don Barron, who runs the Blackpool jazz festival, and David Blenkhorn, the Australian guitarist who plays in Paris, who said he would come to our club in March, 2007.   Evan Christopher is playing there on New Year’s Eve, Hogmanay, Reveillon.

I spent a wonderful 3 days in Paris.   I went  to hear ‘Air, Swing  and Fire’, with charming Nicolas Montier on the sax, Nicolas Peslier on guitar, Rafael Dever on the bass, Jacques Schneck on piano and for the first time, Francois Laudet on the drums.   Pauline Atlan was delightful, with her willowy figure.   I think she’ll be a big star, and I hope she can play at our club. Unfortunately I had left my camera in London.

The next night was Paris Washboard, who are already international stars, and wonderful. And on Saturday it was the farewell appearance of Le Petit Jazz Band.   I always enjoyed their performances, but I will be seeing them all again in different groups.   Au revoir, Gerard Gervois (tuba), Francois Fournet (banjo), Bernard Thevin (piano), Gabriel Conessa (trombone), Jean-Pierre Morel (trumpet), Alain Marquet (clarinet) and Michel Bescont(sax). Nicolas Montier was guesting there.

I went to  the Musee Rodin it is gorgeous.   I  didn’t send very long there, I  will be going back there on Sat. or Sun. with Chris.  I also went to a nice restaurant called Pasco, set up by a couple of friends from S.W. France, to enjoy, to enjoy good food, good company and good conversation.   I mean to take Chris here.

I came out to Australia again sadly missing Edinburgh and Nairn, but I heard some good music here, particularly the Caxton Street Jazz Band, with Bob Mair, leader and drums, Paul Williams, reeds, John Braben, trumpet, Tom, on trombone, vocals (and comedian), Matt Eaves (bass, great fun and very/good) and Bernice Haydock on piano and vocals, she has a good voice. 

The Braben/Jenner Hot Five were also good, with John Breben, trumpet, Andy Jenner, reeds, Bob Mair on drums, Wally First on banjo, and Joe Epps on tuba.   They managed to play The Mooch without a trombone, with Joe Epps on tuba, and it was really fun.   The Clare Hanson trio also played it for me, which was amazing, a piano, (Clare) a guitar (Val[m] Jones) and drums (Geoff Ovenden) Clare has shot up in my estimation, because she remembered the Mooch was one of my favourite songs, went to all the trouble of finding  the right chords (in a rare recording by Toots Teillerman). It was a terrific surprise.   They also played Cute, by Neil Hefti (who wrote Girl Talk) which has a great drum solo.   Also Andrew Shaw (bass), Jeff Usher (a blind singer) with Bela   Piri (bass) and Joe Marieschella (drums).

I’ve just discovered that I’ve managed to wipe out the first part of this week on the computer.  I don’t feel   I have time to   do it all again, but in brief:  On Monday it was the Alligators Jazz Band, the room was much better filled than it used to be, Jean-Claude  Olivier, who plays the clarinet, is so expressive.   Philippe Gibrat on trombone, Philippe Vilanyi on piano,(who I suspect was responsible for attracting some of the  younger crowd)   Patrick de Royde on the bass sac, Patrick Renesme on banjo, and that amazing musician, Jacques Caillon, who played the trumpet, the French horn, the penny whistle, the piano and   a whirly thing that makes a whistling noise, a few musicians play it, no one seems to know the name of – not even Jacques himself – he calls it ‘la  merde’!   Philippe Mary was  a guest singer, he sang well.

Tuesday I went to a new jazz club that one of the musicians was appearing I knew 4 of the musicians, Maxim Saury on  clarinet, Benoit de Flamesnil on trombone, Gilles Bert on washboard, Patrick Richard on piano and Stefan Poutriot on bass.   First I went for a drink in the Tabac  de  la Sorbonne, and met an interesting  man - a poet who did ‘slam’ which I gather is like some ‘a capella’ poetry, performed by a group, line about.   I was going to go along, until I discovered that some of my favourite musicians were unexpectedly appearing at the Petit Jourmal.

Wednesday I was introduced to a ‘new’ restaurant by Marie-Therese, Pre Verre, where the emphasis is on different, unusual and possibly exotic spices.   They did a lunch menu for 12.50.  Very good – except that he toilets were downstairs!!   In the evening  I went to hear Gerard Siefert on trumpet with Marie-Ange and Alice Bassiet on guitar and Lawrence Souk on the bass (he plays with ‘Fidgety Feet). Thurs I had a really enjoyable lunch with a friend who turned up on her bicycle – it is a   super mode of transport – makes you feel young, ALIVE and pretty.   Then we went to the Luxembourg Gardens to listen to a concert given by a group of pupils aged between 12 and 17 from California..     It was a group called Déjà vu.    I just loved the small group of singers they had, who did a kind of jazzy rap.  The whole concert was really exciting, although  I found some  of the music a bit modern.   The enthusiasm of the pupils was such that it fired up the whole audience.    There was practically a standing ovation at the end.

In the evening Pauline Atlan stood in for an ill artist backed up by Nicolas Montier on sax, Nicolas Peslier on the guitar and Pierre Maingourd (Claude Bolling’s bassist).

Friday I went to the  Senat’s museum to see an exhibition about the artistic flowering after WW2    ‘L’envolee artistique’.    I had heard a few of the names-Pierre Soulages, Serge Poliakoff, Zen Wou-Ki, Nicolas de Stael, also Camille Bryern, Georges Mathieu, Marie Barre; Andre Lansky and Sam .Francis.

Friday was the evening of the Paris-Sydney project, with Jerome Etcheberry, Dave Blenkhorn, Sebastien Girardot and George Washing-machine.    They started with a blistering rendition of ‘Blues my naughty sweetie gave  to me.   It was very lively, swinging music.   It really was a good, fun evening.  After the first set Jérome spotted Louis Mazetier in the audience, So he joined in.    They gave a rendition of ’My mama done tole me’ where Jerome Etcheberry played only his mouthpiece.   Love Mist was beautiful. The highlight of the evening for me was ‘The Mooch’.   I have asked for this tune a lot of times in Australia, Britain and the States, people all know  it, but their band doesn’t.   Apparently it is difficult to play, as a result my opinion of French bands has gone up. Saturday saw Paris Washboard here again   I also went to lunch at the Parc aux cerfs.

Then shopping; usually exhausting and exasperating for me, but I took advantage of Winnie being such a great help, then I went to Pizza on the Park, were Barb Jungr and Ian Shaw were performing. They were very good, singing quite a few well known songs in a completely different, fresh (and often amusing) way; eg. I believe in you. They also sang ‘I concentrate on you’, which was one of the first recordings I listened to, on my parent’s l.p. of the Casa Loma Orchestra.

After that I went on to the late set at Ronnie Scott’s where Harry Allen was playing – his playing was exquisite; Joel Forbes (whom I had met in Nairn when we gate-crashed a wedding reception with the other BED members!) was playing the bass in Harry’s quartet, the guitar-player was Joe? (well-known, but I didn’t) and the drummer was Nick Ross (?)
The sandwich-performer was Jacqui Dankworth, who was very good, and attractive with a lovely figure. Steve Brown was in the audience, also a singer, Zoe.

We met at the metro of the Porte de Bagnolet on the bd. Mortier. Shortly afterwards we went up a long, steep flight of steps built into a hill and emerged in rue Irenee Blanc where there is a very desirable and sought after housing development built between 1908-20 by the Compagnons de Paris. There are 450 houses, and although small; they all have a toilet, which was pretty evolutionary in those days. Some houses have put in a garage, and none have gardens although there is often a tree or two in front of the house. Then down more steps, along the rue ‘la capitane Ferrer’ and into the ‘place Edith Piaf’. Because she is very famous, everyone wants to be associated with that fame. We learnt of three different versions of her birth, and when the Hotel de Ville mounted an exhibition of her a year or two back, there was yet a fourth!

At the beginning of the last century the population was 700 and by the 1960’s it had risen to 170,000. It was a very rural arrondissement as is seen by some of the street names- e.g. r. des clos, rue des Guinguettes. There was very little tax on wines, and consequentially many wine merchants lived there. Along the ‘rue de Bagnolet’ to the ‘Pavillon de L’ermitage’, passing through the ‘Sq. Brousse’ the 17C the Chateau of Bagnolet was built. It is long gone, but the Pavillon remains, though it does not seem to be used for much these days, receptions and seùinars.

Then we came down ‘rue des Balkans’ and saw the ‘Sq. des Gres’. We passed a convent which was no longer there but over the arch at the entrance is a head of Mercury – odd choice for a convent! Now there are gardens and social housing. The singer Barbara (who sang with Jacques Brel) lived near here. She was left-wing, a friend of Mitterand and against AIDS. (It had not yet become a ‘popular’ cause among celebrities. She is buried in the cemetery of Beaune.

We also saw two churchs; the 15C. St Germain-de-Charonne, which has lovely windows but which can only be reached up a long and steep flight of steps, and the not very attractive modern church of St. Cyril, built at ground level, so the story goes, so that coffins would not have to be carried up and down the steps! We went round the back of the church to the cemetery where Breziac was buried in 1945. The Malraux mother (1910-44) was buried in the same tomb as her two sons, who were both tragically killed in a car accident (1943-61). The road behind te cemetery is the cemin du parc de Charone; where Louis XIV came with Mazarin, and were there is an underground reservoir.

We finished up the station, the line was built built from 1922-30, when it fell into disuse with the advent of the metro. There has been debate ever since as to what to do wit it, and it has finally been decided to turn it into a cycle track (I am pleased: Iam a SUSTRANS supporter. They have been doing this in Britain for at least 30 years.) The station is now a café/restaurant and also hosts spectacles.

I omitted to mention that at St Julien-de-Pauvres I was given some publicity leaflets, and I see Hubert de Plessis is playing Chopin, Lizst and some Hungarian rhapsodies next Monday.

I had lunch in my favourite (no,that is silly, there are so many good-verging-on-excellent restaurants that I couldn't possibly decide on one favourite, but it is among the top ten.) It never fails to surprise me that it isn't more crowded because the food is cooked to such perfection, with delightful and unusual flavours. For example, today I chose "crème de haricots coco blancs,saumon legerement fume en tranche epaisse, tiedie, basilic, tomates, pistou d'orties sauvages' It was one of Cristophe's masterpieces, simply delicious, and quite unlike any ordinary taste. Au gourmand, 22 rue de Vaugirard, Paris 6, Tel : 01 45 26 26 45
Closed Sat. & Mon. lunch, all day Sunday.

When I left school I went to France for a year. Jacques Brel had died shortly before and his songs were played often, consequently I knew them and when I first heard Barb Jungr she sang them really well and movingly - in English. which I had not thought possible. So when I saw she was singing Presley (another of my heros) Chris and I went out for a rare evening together. It took a long time to get round to the Presley songs, she sang Dyllan songs first, which was an added bonus for Chris.

The first Presley song was incredible, Heartbreak hotel was sung in a whisper, it was really moving and you could have heard a pin drop. By the end of the show she had everybody joining in the spirituals.

On the Monday I went to see Claire Martin. I had heard her quite often before, but after that wonderful evening…..Anyway, I needn't have worried. I enjoyed the evening as much - both the songs and Claire's wholesome, infectious, upper-middle class brand of humour that I went back the following night, when Ian Shaw was in the audience, so sang a love duet with her. I had found Ian Shaw a bit prima-donna-ish before, but they were absolutely WONDERFULLY SUPERB together. So the next night I went back again.

For the next two nights I will be at the Pizza Express (Scott Hamilton, with Steve Brown, Dave Green and John Pearce, I hope, Then off to Scotland, to see relatives, and go to the Edinburgh and Nairn jazz festivals.

22.04.05

05.04.05

09.03.05

Judy, in a Starbucks in London. listened in disbelief as an elderly American, speaking loudly and slowly as though to a foreigner asked the barman; How do you say 'hot chocolate over here?'

Randy was in a Starbucks with his friend. who took the mute off his trumpet and put it on the counter, whereupon the barman asked 'would you like that filled up, sir.'

27.02.05

14.02.05

Yesterday I walked to the lighthouse at the end of the Spit, well, I started to, but then thought better of it, as the sun was very strong and my arms were bare. Then another wonderful lunch at Omeros, Omeros Bros, Seafood restaurant, Marina Mirage, Seaworld Drive, Main Beach - Tel. (07) 55 917 222. It is expensive, but worth every cent, and it does do a wonderful 3-course lunch for 29.90 AD.

There is another restaurant, which I have not been to yet, called the Workers Club, where meals only cost from 3 AD! Apparently they make their money from pokey machines, Cafe Marina, Ristorant Italiano, Marina Mirage, Ground floor. Good food, half the price of Omeros, but the food isn't as wonderful..

In the afternoon a jazz ( blues group called 'the living room' played, I enjoyed their music ,and they told me of a jazz venue called the German Club.

As I had badly sprained my ankle and was finding it boring in a hotel, my friend Sylvia suggested that I stay with her - she had an arm in plaster, having badly broken her wrist. Do for a week or two we licked each others wounds, watched the amazing birds in her garden, rainbow lorikeets, sulphur-crested cockatoos, magpie larks and the spotted dove, to name the most common, and went on occasional outings and to restaurants, the best being a visit to the Four Winds restaurant. This is a revolving restaurant at the top of the Crowne Plaza hotel. It has a magnificent seafood buffet (very reasonably priced at about 30 Aus dollars a head. And, of course, the most wonderful view! Then, finding it more convenient, (Sylvia lived upstairs, with no lift) I stayed in a nearby hotel, where I was able to gradually take more exercise without alarming her too much!

I went up for a weekend to the highly prestigious and elite Hyatt Hotel in Sanctuary Cove. It is amazing how a short drive of 20 mins.or so can completely transform your lifestyle. Even the climate seemed different, more tropical. The Hyatt Hotel was built in 1984, and consists of a large, central building with about 5 other accommodation blocks dotted around in extensive and beautifully landscaped grounds. The buildings are all built in traditional, colonial style, with wide, stone verandas and pillared balconies.. There was frangipani and spider lilies all around, wonderful bird song from the butcher bird and others, and that glorious humid heat that you can feel and smell.

I had a badly sprained ankle. My friend, Sylvia, had a badly broken wrist, so for a few days we kept each other company. On one of them we took a cruise to Sanctuary Cove and South Stradbroke Island, The Golf Coast is about 42kms long from Paradise Point to Coolangatta. The population is nearly 500,000 and goes up by some 60,000 each year. The biggest industry is tourism, which brings in 4.6 million annually. There are more than 80 kms of canals, which is more than Venice 15 inches of rain falls annually, of which half is at night The temperature ranges from 19-31,and the sea is 22 degrees…We passed through Moreton Bay - so this is where all those bugs come from!. It is the largest protected smooth waterway in the southern hemisphere. There are 365 charted islands in the Bay which is fed by 6 major rivers. From here people set out to the Pacific Ocean where they catch the huge blue marlin. In Moreton bay itself there are dolphins, green turtles and manta rays - which the early sailors thought were mermaids.

Sanctuary Cove, on the Coomera River is one of Australia's finest resorts and most elite place to live. Homes are over 2 million Aus. dollars. The former army hospital ship, the AH Krawaree is anchored there. It is the last surviving ship of five that were built in Tasmania of the Huon Pine, a tree that is now protected. It has a very shallow draft, and so can go in close to the shore. It is owned by the Australian Maritime Charity Organisation, who wish to repair and renovate it to take groups of school children, retires and disabled etc to experience water activities with safety. I asked why they chose to anchor here, and the answerer was "Because there is money here - lots of it!"

Back into Broadwater again, and we went to the north end of south
Stradbroke Island., which is the 3rd. largest sand island in the world. It had a beach that you could drive on. It also has 3,000 'golden face' wallabies, which can only be found here. A lot of this area has been made into a national park, which includes many mangrove islands, as they are crucial to bird and plant life. I subsequently stayed at the Hyatt for a couple of nights, and it was so reminiscent of being back in Hong Kong, where I spent my childhood. Wonderful birdsong, vegetation, and the glorious humid warmth which you can actually feel.

William Briscoe, (my distant relative?) who sold timber and hardware, came over from England in 1853. 1856 he bought the Block for $18. The first shop to set up business there was Singer's, who sold sewing machines. The Block was then sold to George and George, a draper, and it became a household name in Melbourne. It burned in 1889, and was rebuilt by an architect called David Askew who was greatly influenced by the Galeria Vincenzia in Milan. It as upgraded in 1980 at a cost of 15 million dollars. The beautiful mosaic floors, in art nouveau patterns with the acanthus leaf as the motif were covered with fettex to protect them during WW2 so they are still in extremely good condition. In 1993 Mr. Carney bought it, fighting off international competition

The other good arcade, from the point of view of shopping, not aesthetics, is Australia on Collins St (it only goes straight thrugh the block whereas the Block goes out to Elisabeth St.. There is an excellent caafe for breakfast there, which sells muesli, fruit salad and hpney yoghurt.

I managed to find two good jazz venues in Melbourne:
Manchester Place, off Flinders Lane between Elizabeth and Swanston Sts. Bennett's Lane off Lonsdale Street I think, betweem Swanston and Russel Streets, but I am not too sure as I took a taxi. And of course there are the buskers, there is a lively street life in Melbourne, I went on a Saturday night, it was guitar, (Ed), slide guitar, (Nick), drums and jembies (4 or 5), including one played by a young lady, Clare, who looked so happy. That is the great thing about jazz, the musicians really enjoy it. Apparently Clare also does African dancing.

I also went to the theatre, to see Jacki Weaver, in a play entitled "The Blonde, the brunette and the vengeful redhead". What a marvellous tittle! Jacki Weaver was brilliant, playing 5 or 6 characters in a one-(wo)man show.

Next door to the theatre is the National Gallery of Victoria. I went to see it. What struck me most was the lighting, the paintings were clear and visible,, and I did not catch any reflection on the paintings themselves, a first for me. I had thought it was because I was at a lower height than everyone else. The architect responsible for the lighting was Mario Bellini..

In Sydney Don and I wandered round the Botanics, which are an amazing place. At one of the gates there is a sign saying 'please hug the trees, walk and picnic on the grass, talk to the plants. This park is yours.' A rough paraphrase, but it seemed to typify the relaxed 'no worries' attitude of Australians, together with the assurance of ownership. We saw cacti, ferns, tropical plants, rainforest, flying foxes (otherwise known as fruit bats: huge creatures quite unlike the tiny European bat - very vvisible.) We wandered on, through the Domain, and into the NSW Gallery. Many of the paintings were by Brits, but there were a few stunningly beautiful ones of Australia in the late 19th. C. How empty the country was then!

Going back into town we passed a small dog with a miniature knapsack on its back and then speakers corner, where two men were orating to half a dozen people.

Then the four of us flew to Cairns, There are lots of palm trees about which is nice. I think Cairns airport is among the best. Stayed at the Cairns Colonial Club Resort, which is almost as good as it was 6 yrs ago. Two storey buildings are arranged around the complex, which is like a miniature rain forest. There are two pools and a toddlers' one, two bars, including one where you can sit on bar stools in the water! There are also two restaurants, one, Jardine's, is more up-market. Cairns Colonial Club Resort, 18-26 Cannon Street, Cairns, Noorth Queensland 4870, AUSTRALIA.

We had three brilliant days in Cairns. We went out to the reef twice, both times to Moore Reef, which is extremely large. This involved a more southerly route than I had previously been on, and the scenery on the voyage was truly awesome., going past Fittzroy Island, which looked pretty idyllic and untouched, but I am sure that out of sight, behind the trees, it would have appeared more touristy.

When we arrived at the reef Don and Michiko both dived, and Martin and I snorkelled. I went out with the marine biologist, and saw amazingly clear coral of different shapes and sizes, with brilliantly coloured fish threading their ways around.

The last day Marty hired a car and we drove into the Cameron Hiighlands. We saw the incredible cathedral fig tree. Then on to Lake Barrine, where we had lunch, Marty and Don swam, and we saw the twin kauri trees Two or three slices of one that had come down much earlier had been preserved, I think they were about 1400 years old.. On to Lake Eachan, which is a lake at the top of a hill, (in a volcanic crater?) where we all swam, As there is no water entering it, it gets warmed by the sun all day. We then saw Malanda Falls, where there was a smallish man-made pool which did not tempt us, so we drove on to Millaa Millaa where a beautiful waterfall tumbled down into a pool. Marty and Don both swam, right under the waterfall, and in a small stream leading out from the pool Don found some tiny turtles.. We left Cairns the next day, when I discovered I had reached the limit of my credit card!!

There do not seem to be as many hospitals in Australia, but there was one at Mollymook. We had lunch in the Pilgrims Café in Mollymook, or Abadulla, where we were in for a big surprise - the café was owned by a university friend of Martin's.

Then on to Katoomba, where we stayed at the Heritage Hotel, at the corner of Apex and Lovell Streets, Katoomba. Tel. 02 4782 2133. which had picture windows in the dining-room with a magnificent view of the Blue Mountains. That evening we ate at a superb restaurant ,Avalon. [PHOTOS TO FOLLOW] The next day we went for a walk at Blavkheath, the guide book had said there was wheelchair access, there was, but the path was rough, not tarmacked, though it obviously had been 40-or-so years ago! Then on to Campbells Rhodedendrons, unfortunately no time to wander around, but it was beautifully maintained. That evening we had a barbecue with friends of Martin and Michiko's,a Nyoki and Nadia, nn exceptionally friendly and welcoming couple. They have a baby called Shen-Say, and there were possums in the garden.

We also came across someone doing illuminations. He loved to talk - perhaps o rate would be the better word, because he was convinced that he was right .and did not enjoy interruptions He was also a very devout Christian church goer. He seems to be part of an association of craftsmen, who run day courses, which sounds very interesting. He used sencils, which surprised me. The contact telephone number is in Paris.

Tel: 01 46 73 33 91
Email = unjourunartisan@wanadoo.fr

The latest news is that Le Poulfanc is closed for renovations, it will reopen in mid-Novembber under the name of La Pibbale, and Bruno will be the artistic director of the music in the 308 club.

And in January Franck Mossler is becoming the musical director of L’ARBUCI, a jazz club in St Germain-de-Pres.

19.10.04

My eldest son Martin and his girlfriend were over here from Australia. What a romantic trip for her, but also very difficult, as she is Japanese, so a completely different culture. But when I travelled on the tube it alarmed her! I keep forgetting to see it from the other person's point of view. They had six days in London and my youngest son came down from Derby for the day. I went with them up in the London Eye. I enjoyed it, but the main thing I noticed was the children's playground, apart from the usual sight-seeing monuments including the Gherkin. Funnily enough it was featured on television that weekend, when it won the RIBA award. And how much dirtier the Thames seemed from close up. Apparently fish do live in it, so it can't be too bad. Martin and Michiko are having a long weekend in Venice.

Michiko loves jazz, so when Martin was out with his friends she came to the 100 club with me to see the Dutch College Swing Band. The next night I went to the River Bar to hear Allen Beechey and his Bright Stars of Jazz who are always good. Then the following evening, when Martin and Michiko were in Venice, Chris and I met a couple of friends at Pizza on the Park where we heard an accomplished cabaret act, Sir Rodney Bennett and Claire Martin - whom I used to hear in Pizza Express before the change in management.

Ile de Re

One of the islands off La Rochelle, it is joined to the mainland by a bridge - a challenge for cyclists, though it wouldn't take them long. There is an airport, which is very small. There are flights between Southampton and La Rochelle/Re. It is a very 'in' place to go, lots of Parisiens have houses/apartments there. We were staying in the house of a friend, a semi-Parisie, in Les Portes-en-Re, right at the far end of the island.. It was wonderful, two villas in large grounds. The beach was quite close, the sea was warm enough to swim in - even for me! I went 11 times. There were lots of interesting pebbles and rock pools, where many inhabitants would fish for shell fish. Thank goodness there were rocks, because there were zillions of sand-lice! Chris, who is getting very interested in Qi Gong, was able to do his meditating in the tranquillity of the garden. Donald was there too, we all enjoyed the good weather, good food and good exercise. A few times we'd cycle over to Ars-en-Re, over the marshland which had been made into a nature reserve for birds, where we went to the large market and to Bernard's Bistrot, a good fish restaurant. We all read 'The curious incident of the dog in the night-time' by Mark Haddon which we all thought good, but I don't want to spoil it for you.

I saw Marcus Printup on Tuesday, who is a wonderful trumpeter - or cornet player, I don't know the difference.

Tomorrow I am off to the Nairn jazz festival, and also seeing quite a few of my relatives, who are scattered around Scotland.